Bigoli pasta: the original Venetian recipe and secrets for making them at home 

Bigoli is a typical pasta shape from Veneto, very similar to thick spaghetti. It has a rough, porous texture that is ideal for holding sauce. The original Venetian recipe calls for a mixture of semolina (durum wheat) and whole wheat flour, which gives them their characteristic yellow-brown color. However, in some parts of Veneto the recipe may use duck eggs instead of chicken eggs. Also, it may call for buckwheat flour instead of whole wheat flour. According to tradition, homemade bigoli is made using a manual hand-crank press with a bronze die plate, which gives them their typical rough and porous surface.

Bigoli pasta sauce and the traditions of Veneto

In Venice, bigoli pasta is usually served with a sauce made from onions and anchovies; sardines are sometimes substituted for anchovies. Pine nuts and raisins are optional. In other cities in Veneto, you can easily find bigoli tossed with a wild boar or duck based sauce. As with all traditional Italian recipes, the recipe for bigoli pasta is linked both to the territory and Italian history. The ingredients and methods of its preparation are linked to the economy of the Veneto region and stem from the people’s attempt to live off the fruits of the earth. The poverty and misery of fishermen and farmers did not prevent the creation of recipes that are envied all over the world.

Homemade preparation, the way to keep cooking traditions alive

Keeping alive the lessons our grandparents taught us, especially in the kitchen, is one of the missions of Accademia di Cucina Italiana. Reclaiming traditions and recipes and teaching them to those who love Italian food is Gioia Tiozzo’s passion, founder and cooking teacher. Knowing the history of a recipe helps us to remember how life was lived in Italy in the past century. It is how we build a culinary tradition. Accademia di Cucina Italiana is committed to keeping traditions alive by offering recipes that are an expression of Italian culture. Teaching recipes using original ingredients and methods is the first step in celebrating the incredible richness of Italian cooking traditions. Accademia di Cucina Italiana, which has always been committed to emphasizing the importance of home cooking, provides a step-by-step guide on how to make bigoli at home.

Bigoli according to our local traditions

Nowadays, bigoli is considered the iconic dish of Venetian cuisine. It’s such tasty recipe that it’s perfect for celebrating special occasions or the personal enjoyment of local traditions. Bigoli has humble origins. The pasta dough was simply made from flour and water and served with an extremely modest sauce. In the past, the sauce was made from sardines, duck or wild boar as was typical of those who could not afford anything else.

Bigoli was the typical meal of fishermen and farmers who made a living from what they found in the area by fishing or hunting. Presently, in a world of relative opulence, the bigoli recipe has been completely revisited in the name of simplicity associated with flavor and high nutritional value and is now offered in many renowned restaurants. The recipe is not difficult, but you need to know the method and the right ingredients. Let’s start learning how to make homemade bigoli.

Origin and history of bigoli

The history of bigoli dates back centuries. There are documents that attest to its popularity in northern Italy as early as 1600, in Padua, where a local pasta maker had built a special hand crank machine, “il bigolaro,” to produce the bigoli pasta in large quantities to meet the strong demand. To avoid having to make them by hand, one by one, the pasta maker had built a small press through which the pasta was extruded in the form of long, thick, rough spaghetti.

The word “bigolo” may originate from the dialect word “bigat,” which means worm. The fact that there was a need to create an ‘industrial’ production of this type of pasta shows how commonly bigoli was eaten throughout the Veneto region. According to a more recent tradition dating back to the 1950s, bigoli was a typical Venetian dish that was eaten on ‘lean days’, i.e. Christmas Eve or Good Friday before Easter. According to Catholic precepts, especially during Lent, on “lean days” people avoided eating meat and rich foods, preferring fish, lentils, and vegetables. Bigoli fully satisfied this principle and was eaten with a sauce made from sardines and onions.

What is bigoli?

Bigoli is a type of fresh pasta typical of the Veneto region. It is made from semolina and whole wheat flour and is very thick and rough. These characteristics derive from the particular preparation method, which involves a press with bronze dies. The rough surface allows the most sauce to stick to each piece of bigoli. The sauce is usually made with anchovies ( or sardines) and onions in Venice, while in the rest of the Veneto region it may be meat-based. Bigoli are usually yellow-brown in color due to the use of whole wheat flour, which can be replaced by buckwheat flour. The traditional recipe and method for making bigoli is taught in cooking classes organized by the Accademia di Cucina Italiana in Venice.

What is the difference between bigoli and spaghetti?

Bigoli is a particular type of pasta made with a dough based on semolina and whole wheat flour which gives it its typical yellow-brown color. You can eat bigoli exclusively in the Veneto region. It is considered a local specialty. Compare to spaghetti, bigoli is much thicker and has a rough surface obtained by drawing them through a bronze die using a special press called a “bigolaro.” The roughness that distinguishes bigoli is essential for the pasta to carry the sauce. In Venice, bigoli is served with a sauce made from anchovies and onions. In the rest of the Veneto region, they are prepared with wild boar or duck based sauce. Even if bigoli is a recipe that is part of Venetian tradition, few families still prepare it at home. In addition, it is difficult to find in restaurants. It is a dish that is slowly falling into disuse due to the complexity of its preparation as a result of the need for a specific press which is very expensive to buy as it is made of bronze.

Spaghetti, on the other hand, is made from semolina, has the typical pale yellow color of Italian pasta, and has a smooth surface. It is sold in different thicknesses, from thin to medium, but is never as thick as bigoli. It is widespread throughout Italy and is considered a common type of pasta.

What is the difference between bigoli and pici pasta?

Bigoli and Pici pasta may both look like spaghetti, but the difference lies in their origin, production method, and shape. Bigoli is a type of fresh pasta typical of the Veneto region, while Pici originated in Tuscany. Bigoli is made with a dough based on semolina and whole wheat flour, which gives it a brown color. Pici is made with regular flour and water. To make bigoli, a press with bronze dies is used. To make pici, strips of “sticky” dough are created and then stretched by hand, one by one, holding and rubbing the dough between the palms. Bigoli is thick, long, and very uniform; the Pici form is irregular. Bigoli and Pici pasta may both look like spaghetti, but the difference lies in their origin, production method, and shape.  

What is the difference between bigoli and tonnarelli pasta? 

Bigoli is typical of the Veneto region, while Tonnarelli pasta originates from central Italy. Bigoli is produced using a press “bigolaro” with bronze dies, the result is a kind of very thick, rough spaghetti. Tonnarelli is made using a special tool called  “chitarra,” which consists of a  metal wires that cut a thick sheet of fresh pasta in regular stripes. The result is a square, thick spaghetti. Bigoli and Tonnarelli are very well suited to being served with meat-based sauces.

RECIPE: How to make homemade bigoli pasta

A step-by-step guide to making homemade bigoli.  We will start with the traditional homemade pasta, followed by a guide on how to make the accompanying sauce.

INGREDIENTS

Servings: 4

150 gr semolina flour

100 gr whole wheat flour

2 eggs

     Preparation for homemade bigoli pasta:

•  Place the two types of flour on the work surface.
•  Make a well in the center, big enough to hold the 2 eggs.
•  Add the two eggs.
• Using a fork, quickly mix the eggs and flour together.
• When the fork can no longer mix the dough because it has become too thick, use your hands.
• Compact the flour and egg mixture to form a ball. If the pasta dough is too dry, add a few drops of water. If it is too sticky, add a little flour.
• Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic ( for at least 10 minutes).
• To speed up the process, you can put the dough in a food processor and run it at medium speed for 5 minutes. The final result should be a dough that is easy to work with, not too sticky and not too dry.
• If necessary, adjust the consistency by adding more water or more flour.
• Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let it rest for a minimum of 30 minutes; a 1- 2 hour resting period will produce the best results.
• Resting is essential because kneading develops the gluten in the flour. If you try to shape it immediately, it will be too elastic and require more effort. After resting, however, making bigoli ( or any pasta) will be an easy job, especially for a beginner.
• Once the resting time is over, the pasta is ready to be shaped.

You can make the pasta dough also without the eggs. Simply mix the two types of flour with 1/2 cup of water, adding the water a little at a time until you will have a easy to work pasta dough. However, the egg pasta will be tastier and easier to work with. Egg-based pasta is always recommended for beginners with no experience in kneading as it is much easier. Eggs act as a glue and keep the dough well blended.

HOW to SHAPE bigoli

According to tradition, bigoli pasta is prepared using a hand crank press with bronze dies, called “bigolaro”. This tool is very expensive and difficult to find, even in Veneto, where it was originally created. It can still be found in some shops specializing in pasta-making tools in Bologna. Almost no one uses the specific press at home anymore, partly because it requires a lot of physical strength and also because the press is very expensive ( about 300 euros). The “bigolaro” consists of a hollow cylinder into which the pasta dough is placed. The cylinder is closed by a lid that is operated by a piston that pushes the pasta against the perforated bronze die. However, if a “bigolaro” press is not available, you can make homemade “bigoli” with kitchen tools you can easily buy everywhere in the world.

How to use a “bigolaro” press

Shape small pieces of the dough into sausages as thick as the cylinder of the press. Insert the dough into the press. Close the cylinder and turn the handle (or screw down the lever, depending on the model) to push the dough through the bronze die. Long, thick strands of bigoli will come out from the bottom. Cut the bigoli into pieces about 12-15 cm long. Place them on a tray well-dusted with semolina flour and make sure that the bigoli do not overlap, as this will cause them to stick together. Let them dry or cook immediately.

ATTACHMENT FOR BIGOLI

PASTA MACHINE FOR BIGOLI

TORCHIETTO PER PASTA

What to use if you don’t have a proper “bigoli” press

You can use a potato ricer to make bigoli

If you do not have a “bigolaro press” to make your bigoli, you can use a potato masher (potato riser) with particularly large holes.  Place a portion of dough the size of a medium potato into the potato ricer. Press firmly to push the dough through the holes. Cut the resulting strips of pasta into about 15 cm strands. Dust them lightly with flour to prevent sticking. Arrange them on a tray dusted with semolina flour. Let them dry or cook immediately.

You can use a pasta machine with the proper attachment

If you are confident in using an Italian pasta machine, this is the easier solution. From the same brand pasta machine, buy the bigoli attachment. It will do the work for you.

How to use a rolling pin for pasta

In Italy (and online Italian stores) you can buy special rolling pins that cut sheets of dough into perfect long strips. Gently roll the resulting pasta strips with the palms of your hands on the rough surface of a wooden cutting board to make them perfectly round to the desired length. This technique requires long training and it’s time-consuming. However, you will have homemade bigoli pasta.

 How to make bigoli pasta by hand

Bigoli can be made by hand, one by one. Roll out a piece of pasta dough (the size of a medium size potato). Once it’s an even 1/2 cm thick, cut it into strips about 5-8 cm long. Roll them, one by one, on a wooden work surface until it will have a cylindrical shape. Obviously, they will never be as perfect and regular as those made with a proper press, but if you don’t have anything else, it will do just fine.

You can use a meat grinder

You can also use a meat grinder with large holes when making bigoli. The tool will easily press the pasta dough forming it into cylindrical strips. It’s usually use if you want to make a large amount of bigoli. Start putting a portion of dough ( about the quantity of 3 medium potatoes). Crank the machine, which will easily push the dough through the holes. Cut the resulting strips of pasta into about 15 cm strands.

You can use  a “torchietto”

The bigolaro press is quite expensive, but you can buy a more affordable one. In Italy, it’s called “torchietto”, which means small press. It comes with different dies for different pasta shapes.  Both work in the same way.

HOW TO MAKE “Bigoli in Salsa” recipe – Bigoli with Anchovy and Onion Sauce

A step-by-step guide for the most traditional Venetian recipe. You can use both anchovies or small sardines.

INGREDIENTS

Servings: 4

2 medium-sized onions (thinly sliced)

12 small anchovies (roughly cut into small pieces)

20 gr raisins

20 gr pine nuts

 Preparation for “bigoli in salsa”:

• Soak the raisins in warm water to rehydrate. Slice the onion very thinly.
• Heat the pan with 6 tablespoons of oil.
• Add the anchovies and cook over low heat until they have completely melted (lid on).
• Add the onions and rehydrated raisins. Cook over very low heat with the lid on. Be careful not to burn the onions. Add a little water if necessary. The onions should cook until they are tender, almost puréed, and should blend completely with the anchovies.
• Meanwhile, cook the bigoli in salted water until al dente.
• Set aside 1 cup of the cooking water.
• Drain the bigoli and add the pasta to the onion and anchovy sauce.
• Add 1 ladleful of the pasta cooking water. Allow the pasta to blend with the sauce for at least 2 minutes until it is as thick as you like.
• Add pine nuts to taste.
• Serve immediately.

Cooking Tips:

• When your homemade bigoli are ready, cook them immediately without letting them dry out. Fresh pasta absorbs any sauce better than dry or store-bought pasta. Fresh pasta, which has a high capacity for absorbing liquids, increases in flavor the day after it is dressed. Keep this in mind for any recipe.
• Bigoli – and any other pasta shape – can be made rough by rolling it during preparation on any rough surface, such as an old gnarled cutting board. The rough surface of the pasta will allow it to better absorb the sauce.
• The addition of pine nuts and raisins is a tradition that Venetians copied from the recipes of the Jewish community living in Venice. Mixing savory and sweet is a strategy which always works to enhance the flavor of simple, basic ingredients. Venetians copied this trick. You should too.
• Bigoli can also be made using 2/3 whole wheat flour and 1/3 semolina. Whole wheat flour always makes the surface of the pasta porous and rougher, which increases the ability of the bigoli to absorb the sauce.
• To make “bigoli in salsa” even tastier, you can toast some breadcrumbs with olive oil and add some Parmesan cheese and a sprinkling of chopped parsley. Serve the toasted topping separately and let your guests add it to their plates themselves. Use 1 tablespoon of breadcrumbs per person. Add cheese and basil to taste. This trick adds a touch of crunchiness to the dish.

NUTRITIONAL ADVICE

“Bigoli in salsa” is a complete dish as it contains carbohydrates, high-quality protein, vegetables, fiber, and high-quality fats. There is no need to cook anything else. Feel free, for once, to serve yourself a generous portion, knowing that as a single dish, there is no danger of overindulging in anything else.

HOW TO STORE FRESH PASTA

Fresh pasta is usually prepared and cooked immediately. If you have any leftover pasta, you can leave it on paper trays and let it dry completely (this will take 1-2 days in winter and 1 day in summer). Once dry, the pasta can be stored in glass jars or any kitchen container. Fresh egg pasta should never be stored in the refrigerator (for a few hours at most). This is because the eggs oxidize and alter the flavor and color. It should not be placed in the freezer either, because once thawed, it loses its original consistency and becomes too sticky and gummy. Fresh pasta, cooked and dressed with any sauce, can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Supermarkets are full of ready-made frozen pasta. How is this possible? They use more resistant doughs with high-gluten-content flour that is difficult to find for those who cook at home. Anything is possible, but it also depends on what you are used to eating. Those who love fresh pasta and know how to cook according to Italian traditions are unlikely to find frozen pasta tasty.

WHICH ITALIAN WINE TO PAIR WITH BIGOLI

“Bigoli in salsa” can be paired with a still white wine from Veneto. Since the dish is already savory, it is best to opt for a very balanced wine such as “Pinot Bianco”. Other alternatives could be a “Custoza” or a “Lugana”. A good “Prosecco” could be another option. The dish leaves a strong flavor in the mouth, and the bubbles in Prosecco are perfect for cleansing the palate and moving on to another dish. I would avoid “Soave”, because its aroma is too delicate and elegant to accompany a dish based on anchovies or sardines.

For bigoli pasta with duck ragù, I recommend a medium-bodied red wine. Still thinking of wines from Veneto, I would suggest a “Tai” or a “Raboso del Piave“ with soft tannins. A red wine from the Euganean Hills or a “Bardolino” would also be excellent. I would also recommend a “Valpolicella” because its red fruit flavors which do enhance game.

RECIPE: HOW TO MAKE BIGOLI PASTA WITH DUCK RAGU

In the Veneto region, bigoli pasta is served with a duck-based sauce. Here is a recipe for how to prepare it at home.

INGREDIENTS:

servings: 8

10 tablespoons olive oil

4 garlic cloves ( minced)

fresh herbs ( bay leaves, rosemary, sage)

1 glass of still white wine ( ex, pinot)

1 duck ( about 1 kilo)

Cooking video by Pasta Grannies YouTube Channel

      Preparation for duck ragu:

• Put 10 tablespoons of olive oil in an oven dish.
• Add 4 cloves of chopped garlic, 4 bay leaves, 2 sprigs of rosemary, 2 sprigs of sage, and 1 glass of still white wine, salt to taste.
• Place the whole 1 kg duck in the oven dish.
• Cover with a lid and cook for 1 hour at 150 degrees.
• Leave to cool.
• Cut the duck into 4 pieces, remove all the bones and skin.
• Cut the duck meat into large pieces.
• Heat 6 tablespoons of oil in a pan.
• Add 4 cloves of garlic and 1 ladleful of water. Simmer for 1 minute.
• Add a medium onion, finely diced, together with 1 ladleful of water. Simmer until the onion is tender and translucent (this will take at least 5 minutes) over low heat.
• Add the carrot and celery, finely diced. Simmer for 3-4 minutes.
• Add the duck meat and salt to taste. Add 3 bay leaves, 1 sprig of sage, and finely chopped rosemary to enhance the flavor.
• Simmer for at least 2-3 minutes over low heat.
• Add the tomato purée. Simmer for at least 2-3 minutes.
• The duck ragù is ready.

Meanwhile, cook the bigoli pasta in salted water until al dente. Set aside 1 cup of the cooking water. Drain the bigoli and pour it over the duck ragù (which should be piping hot). Mix everything together. Serve immediately. Parmesan cheese can be added to taste.

READY FOR AN IMMERSIVE COOKING EXPERIENCE IN VENICE?

Now that you know all about bigoli, are you ready to enjoy an authentic Venetian experience, moving from theory to practice? To learn how to cook, all you need is practice with someone to guide you step by step. A cooking class in Venice is a great way to try authentic local cuisine and taste homemade bigoli made with fresh pasta.

Come visit us in Venice! Take part in a hands-on cooking class with Gioia. Together, we will prepare bigoli and other local Venetian dishes in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

ONLINE ITALIAN COOKING COURSES

If you can’t come to Venice, you can learn to cook from the comfort of your own home. Follow our online Italian cooking classes. Learn all the secrets of pasta and its sauces. On-line courses are accessible wherever you are.